Bishop Hobbies

Sometimes ya just can’t airbrush everything. You have to brush stuff by hand. Especially small bits. I have a variety of brushes that I’ve purchased from hobby shops over the years. I also got some nice artists oil brushes from my daughter this last Christmas (thanks Tiff). If you want to pay more – buy brushes from a hobby shop. You can get better prices at places like Michaels caft stores. I keep my brushes in a block of oak that I drilled several holes in. That works better than putting them in a jar. It’s easier to see the individual brushes. You should clean your brush a soon as you are finished using it if you want it to last. Once the paint dries on the brush it’s toast. I have plastic tubes over most of my smaller bushes – that keeps the points safe and they keep their shape better.

I find that at my age I usually need a magnifying headset when I paint the small stuff – that can make a real difference. Good lighting is a must also. Here is a pic of the magnifying headset (Donegan DA-4 OptiVISOR Headband Magnifier, 2X Magnification) I use.

 

 

 

Ahh – photo etch – the stuff that makes models look great. What detail – what realism – also extra $$ and how the heck do you get the stuff to glue to anything except your fingers!

Photo Etch has it’s pluses and minuses for sure. Some of the photo etch is so small that it almost defies reason to expect to be able to bend it to the correct shape and can easily be launched into the nether regions of your work room or into another dimension in your carpet – never to be found again – unless you walk over that spot in your bare feet.

When working with such small parts magnification is a real must.

I use the Mission Models Etch Mate 3C to bend my photo etch.

While it’s pricy it does the job well enough for me. I can also frequently get away with using a set of smooth jaw pliers to do the trick. Also shown are two twezers and a file and X-acto knife as well as a block of hardwood to cut on – all useful in the photo etch area.

As to gluing the stuff – one word – cleanliness. You have to get the metal surface clean (and also the plastic surface) and then use a really suprisingly small amount of super glue to do the trick. I also use white glue to attach the etch part then come back with a toothpick with a drop of cyano on it. Photo etch can really get fiddly beyond all reason and you must determine where your sanity level ends so you don’t go all bonkers. This is a hobby after all and it’s supposed to provide enjoyment and relaxation.

I have had really good luck with Gold Metal Models line of products for ships and also Eduards provides a huge array of products for armor and a/c.

Here are two pictures of photo etch:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a pic of the photo etch for the Eduard 1/48 F6F-3, this is a really nice model that I have in my stash:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is an old pic of my Yamato during the process of adding GMM photo etch:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8/7/2011  I've had a lot of problems over the years using CA glue with photo etch – I seem to be able to glue my fingers together really well.  I have less luck with the photo etch.  This glue is water soluable and you apply it with a brush.  It is plyable for about 15 minutes before it sets up.  I've started using it and so far it is working out really well – here is a pic of the glue….I bought mine at Sprue Brothers – great service by the way.